Résultat de la recherche
Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 2: treemoss
This is a comprehensive review of extracts from the lichen Pseudevernia furfuracea (treemoss) that are used in the fragrance industry. Qualitative and quantitative analytical aspects are critically reviewed and the results are compared to those of the related oakmoss extracts. It is shown that more than 90 constituents have been identified so far in treemoss extracts, including 42 depsides, depsidones or depside-derived compounds, and 42 triterpenes or steroids. Constituents of certain host trees, mainly Pinus species, generate specific analytical and toxicological issues which need to be considered in addition to those related to the known degradation products of lichen compounds. A new classification of lichen extracts used as raw materials in fragrance compounding is proposed.
Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 1: oakmoss
A comprehensive review is presented on extracts of a lichen, oakmoss (Evernia prunastri), that are used in the fragrance industry. Analytical aspects are discussed in detail, from both qualitative and quantitative standpoints, mainly in relation to the industrial processing of the lichen. It is shown that more than 170 constituents have been identified so far in oakmoss extracts, including 47 depsides or depside-derived compounds and 25 triterpenes or steroids. A survey of industrially relevant synthetic products with an oakmoss odour is included. Toxicology issues related to the use of oakmoss extracts in cosmetics and fragrance formulations are critically reviewed.